Buyer Beware
I am always amazed at the ongoing misrepresentations, the spins on fact, the gray areas of defined terms and the not so occasional lies that are communicated in the jewelry industry. Maybe this sort of mind-bending manipulation happens in all industries, I wouldn’t know, but it sure happens in the world of jewelry.
So the consumer, that’s you, is left to fend for themselves, and sort out the truth from the not so true. In trying to make this article valuable to you, I want to go over some common ‘buzz’ words and give you some useful definitions.
Hand-crafted: (also known as ‘hand-made’) When you see this term, it means nothing. After all, how else would a piece of jewelry be made? With your feet? You would assume that hand-crafted implies a craftsman of skill dedicated to a well created piece. In the past you would have been correct. These days everyone uses this term. In fact almost all the work you see if factory made, with each phase of the piece executed by a different person, and usually in another country.
Hand-forged: Forged jewelry is the process in which the piece is fabricated directly out of metal. There are very few goldsmiths who can actually do this kind of work. An indepth knowledge of metallurgy is essential for hand-forged work. Most jewelers who make jewelry simply finish castings. This requires very little to no knowledge of metal characteristics, such as malleability, durability, molecular diffusion, alloy compatibility, etc.
Finest Quality: Don’t even listen to this one, it means nothing. In case you haven’t noticed, all jewelry available is the finest quality…. go figure….
Most Beautiful Diamond: Funny how every jewelry store seems to have ‘the most beautiful diamonds’, and yet, none are the same, each is better than the other. Simply put, a diamond with an excellent polish, excellent symmetry and excellent proportions will be the brightest, and have the most fire. It is all geometry and math as to how it returns light. The American Gem Trade Society recently did a three year study (prior to their coming out with the first ever ‘Cut’ grade on a diamond report) on what makes a diamond the most beautiful, and they found that it depends upon not only how perfectly it is cut, but also upon the preference of the viewer, and the light the diamond is viewed in. By the way, not all certifications are always accurate. Personally, I prefer to only use the GIA and AGS ‘certs’.
So here you are, trying to sort through it all. Today there is a strong demand by the consumer to buy jewelry that is meaningful, artistic, original, rare and beautiful. The good news is it does exist. Although there are sincere designers and jewelry artisans out there and available to you, they are scarce and for you to find them is going to require that you gain knowledge in jewelry. The more jewelry you see, touch and examine, the more confident you can be in your next acquisition.
Caveat Emptor – Let the Buyer Beware!
Knowledge is your sword of truth – Zoltan David
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Thursday, March 12, 2009
Trends Fashion and Fine Art in the Jewelry World
Dedicated to Rebels, Rockers and Raconteurs
There is good reason why jewelry design firms such as Cartier, Tiffany, Bulgari, Buccelati and a few others are legendary, and the reason certainly is not because they were ordinary in their formative years. These firms were born of artists with a vision. A vision for the extraordinary. Some of these firms have held true to their visionary leaders, some have not. More on this later.
I read an article the other day about Michelle Obama’s new favorite jewelry designer, Tom Binns. He photocopies pictures of jewelry from fashion magazines and laminates them and puts them together with safety pins – let’s hear it for craftsmanship and the fine art of design.
Back in 1994, I had the opportunity to exhibit my work for the first time on an international basis at the New York International Jewelry Show. (If you read a little of my history, you’ll find out the show went pretty well for me.) I was standing somewhere on the show floor, kind of musing about my work and where it was heading when I had a sort of vision. I saw myself in a meadow by a ‘fork in the road’; I was walking a path followed by a few individual sheep and I also saw a much larger group of sheep being led by a single sheep off into the darkness. Some of the sheep in the herd were looking back towards me and my small group of individuals as if they were hesitating about where they were headed. I have never forgotten that image.
I am still not sure whether I chose that path or it chose me.
Suffice it to say that an artist must have a vision, and that it must be a vision true to themselves. This necessitates walking to the beat of their own drum, singing with their own voice. This is a sure-fire formula for being and becoming autonomous. All you individuals out there know what I am talking about here.
I had a friend in the jewelry exhibiting world back in the 90’s, his name is Karl Benz. He lives in Japan, and in my opinion he was and is one of the most innovative and skilled jewelry artists I have met. I remember him telling me that we suffer for our art. Of course, he is right. This passion both imprisons and liberates me at the same time – never a dull moment.
Paths in life are an interesting thing. There is no ‘right’ path or ‘wrong’ path per se, but there is a single path suitable for each and every one of us. You will know if you are on your suitable path by asking a simple question – Am I on a life invigorating journey?
So back to the jewelry artist. I take my work personally – oh I understand I am not an island, that having a team to work with is invaluable, that the community and friends around me are without question essential, that practical aspects of business and marketing are a must – but still, I am my work and my work is me. And try as hard as I may to separate the product from the producer, I cannot, nor in all honesty do I want to. Although I often realize it would be far simpler.
To “give them what they have been taught to want”, to set up a production line of three stone rings or journey pendants, or whatever the hell the next trend is, but by my tone I’m sure you can tell I have nothing but disdain for this notion.
So here I am, 30 years down the road wishing now for what I wished for then, to make a better piece of jewelry than the one I just completed.
Artists don’t follow trends, they liberate people from them.
-Stay tuned from Austin, TX-
http://www.zoltandavid.com/
There is good reason why jewelry design firms such as Cartier, Tiffany, Bulgari, Buccelati and a few others are legendary, and the reason certainly is not because they were ordinary in their formative years. These firms were born of artists with a vision. A vision for the extraordinary. Some of these firms have held true to their visionary leaders, some have not. More on this later.
I read an article the other day about Michelle Obama’s new favorite jewelry designer, Tom Binns. He photocopies pictures of jewelry from fashion magazines and laminates them and puts them together with safety pins – let’s hear it for craftsmanship and the fine art of design.
Back in 1994, I had the opportunity to exhibit my work for the first time on an international basis at the New York International Jewelry Show. (If you read a little of my history, you’ll find out the show went pretty well for me.) I was standing somewhere on the show floor, kind of musing about my work and where it was heading when I had a sort of vision. I saw myself in a meadow by a ‘fork in the road’; I was walking a path followed by a few individual sheep and I also saw a much larger group of sheep being led by a single sheep off into the darkness. Some of the sheep in the herd were looking back towards me and my small group of individuals as if they were hesitating about where they were headed. I have never forgotten that image.
I am still not sure whether I chose that path or it chose me.
Suffice it to say that an artist must have a vision, and that it must be a vision true to themselves. This necessitates walking to the beat of their own drum, singing with their own voice. This is a sure-fire formula for being and becoming autonomous. All you individuals out there know what I am talking about here.
I had a friend in the jewelry exhibiting world back in the 90’s, his name is Karl Benz. He lives in Japan, and in my opinion he was and is one of the most innovative and skilled jewelry artists I have met. I remember him telling me that we suffer for our art. Of course, he is right. This passion both imprisons and liberates me at the same time – never a dull moment.
Paths in life are an interesting thing. There is no ‘right’ path or ‘wrong’ path per se, but there is a single path suitable for each and every one of us. You will know if you are on your suitable path by asking a simple question – Am I on a life invigorating journey?
So back to the jewelry artist. I take my work personally – oh I understand I am not an island, that having a team to work with is invaluable, that the community and friends around me are without question essential, that practical aspects of business and marketing are a must – but still, I am my work and my work is me. And try as hard as I may to separate the product from the producer, I cannot, nor in all honesty do I want to. Although I often realize it would be far simpler.
To “give them what they have been taught to want”, to set up a production line of three stone rings or journey pendants, or whatever the hell the next trend is, but by my tone I’m sure you can tell I have nothing but disdain for this notion.
So here I am, 30 years down the road wishing now for what I wished for then, to make a better piece of jewelry than the one I just completed.
Artists don’t follow trends, they liberate people from them.
-Stay tuned from Austin, TX-
http://www.zoltandavid.com/
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